There are some basic tools you should always have ready – such as: a pair of small tongs (and a wire cutter), a putty knife, a caliper for precise measurements, a pair of tweezers for whenever your fingers are too big, a sharp precision cutter and/or scalpel (X-acto), an old toothbrush for cleaning purposes, brushes in different sizes for hand painting. [More…]
One of the most important materials in the hobby of prop building is casting resin. It is used to make copies of a master model using a silicone rubber mold. Most prop kits on the market are made from some kind of resin. [More…]
One of the tools that have a variety of usages: Wooden spatulas. I use them to stir RTV silicone rubber or to avoid to slop resin on the rim of the can when I pour one of its components. [More…]
To join two plastic parts, for example styrene, I use a special plastic glue. It works better than “normal” glue, because it somewhat dissolves the affected areas of plastic and then welds them together on contact. This way both parts become one and are therefore being connected permanently. [More…]
Spray glue is one thing I enjoy very much. It converts every piece of prited paper into a sticker and is very useful to attach different graphics to props. The advantage is that the glue is applied very evenly. It is also available in a removable variant. [More…]
Sandpaper and files are irreplaceable in the hobby of prop building. Sometimes however, there’s the need for more power. With a multipurpose tool like the one pictured below you can grind, drill, mill, saw, polish parts – and more – depending on what attachment you are using. Very useful are devices with variable speeds and several different attachments for different tasks. [More…]
One of the goods that is used up a lot during the buildup of a prop: primer. It is not only used to prepare a surface for the paint but it also very helpful in finding imperfections and blemishes after the sanding process. Small scratches or defects are revealed this way. This is also why the consumption of primer is so high: The alternating process of priming and sanding requires lots of primer. [More…]
For parts which are supposed to be joined together permanently I use 5-minute epoxy glue, which is mixed from two components. The working life is – guess what – 5 minutes after which the glued parts are nearly inseperable without destroying them in the process. Be cautious: Always wear protective gloves to ensure that your skin doesn’t come in contact with this chemical! [More…]
Crepe tape is the most suitable tape for masking purposes. It can be removed easily and without leaving any residue, but it is also very strong and prevents paint from getting under it. Furthermore it is tearproof and can be easily severed from the roll without the use of scissors which speeds up the workflow. [More…]
To fill large areas, for example seams of two part resin castings or glueing joints, I use an automotive polyester filler. The same material is used to fix rusted areas on a car. It is mixed with a hardener and cures within a few mintes to a cream white color. It sands and polishes extremely well (it even can be drilled) after only 15 minutes. You can also use it as a glue for low stress joints. [More…]
